Author: melitat

Day 136 Machynlleth to Aberdyfi 6 July 2023
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Day 136 Machynlleth to Aberdyfi 6 July 2023

Today has been superb!  I left about 8.30 (with ominous noises from my car, which has been playing up lately – I think it needs a new starter motor 😦 ) I drove to Aberdyfi, which took about 35 mins, although it is only 10 miles, but there were a couple of sets of road works and the road is very twisty.  I parked at the station and jumped on the 9.33 train, bound for Birmingham International, via every station in Mid-Wales and Worcestershire. Fortunately, it arrived at Machynlleth on time, so I began my walk a few minutes after 10am, well to the east of the Dyfi estuary . 

Trashed honesty box, near Machynlleth.

The first bit is along the A492, not very pleasant, then you turn up a track. My goodness, it was steep.  Up and up it went, then branched left (past a little sales hut with an honesty box that some lout has trashed – honestly, why would anyone do that?)  The path turned across a bracken-filled field, and kept climbing, eventually reaching the edge of woodland.  It took me an hour to do 1.8 miles, it was so steep. I stopped to eat an apple and admire the view.

Woodland above the A493

The peace was disturbed by the sound of machinery – I thought it was logging, but when I had scrambled down the steep slope off the peak, I saw that the track had been recently trimmed, so I guess it was that. In the clearing at the bottom were several men, ready to start path maintenance. 

At this point the trail joins the cycle route and continues on a stony track for several miles, then a bit of road into Felindre, which has a best-kept village award, but sadly the only community pub/cafe was closed.  A few yards further on, the path goes into the Macdonald Leisure Centre – it looked like a community of sheltered housing, but presumably is a holiday destination, as there is a pool and leisure centre.  It said open to non-residents, so I went in to have a coffee.  I went to reception and asked the girl behind the desk for coffee.  She was apologetic – it was her first day and she did not know how to use the machine.  The others were on their break. At that point, another staff member arrived.  She thought the coffee machine needed to be cleaned first, but did not know how to do it.  She called the other two staff members from their break – none of them knew how to use it – it seem a bit limiting to have four people, none of whom can use the coffee machine in a leisure club.  One offered to make me a cup of instant, but I declined with thanks.

The path then ran out the back of the club along a grassy track, into woodland, and eventually across a sheepfield where I met two Scottish women who’d come over the top from Tywyn and were making for Machynlleth – definitely a harder route.  The track then dropped down across the main road again onto a side road that climbed and climbed, before turning into a long track across the hillside. It is called the Panorama Track, and no prizes for guessing why – the whole of the Dyfi estuary could be seen, with the mountains to the south, and the Cader Idris range to the north, then out to the west, the sea was gleaming in the distance.  It was a long walk, but absolutely wonderful. Definitely some of the best views of the entire walk so far although because the sun was not bright, the photos don’t do it justice. 

The Dyfi Estuary

Eventually, the track turned off through a couple of fields – one so steep and ploughed up from cattle that it was a struggle to walk – my knees were definitely fed up by this point. 

I got into Aberdyfi just after four – meaning I had done 11.2 miles in six hours, including several stops to admire the view. Good timing considering how steep parts were.  I asked advice on a cafe and was directed to one that apparently was excellent, but I had no opportunity to test it as they were not serving between 4 and 5.  The next one, too was closed.  Seriously – in holiday season in a beach side town, why would you close your cafe at 4pm?  What British person doesn’t want a cup of tea at 4pm?  Fortunately, I found another place that had a little more sense as to what might be a good way to run a catering business and had a very good cherry blondie.  11.6 miles back to the car and another Gold day.

Day 135 Borth to Ffwrnais 5 July 2023
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Day 135 Borth to Ffwrnais 5 July 2023

We enjoyed our lunch so much yesterday that we decided to go back to the deli to pick up some cheese to take home, and a sandwich for the route. We left my car at Ffwrnais, and drove into Aberystwyth.  We were waylaid by a lovely little boutique where I was able to indulge my passion for scarves, whilst Jane fed her mania for belts.  While we were inside there was a sudden downpour, but that was all the rain we saw for the day. We went to the deli and I got some lovely Manchego with truffle and some Abaty Glas, which is a blue cheese made locally. It seemed only polite to have a coffee and I squeezed a chocolate croissant in as well.  Fully stuffed, we drove to Borth to drop Jane’s car. The walk along the south side of the Dyfi Estuary is flat and pleasant, but not exciting. It is over marshland for about 3 and a half miles.

Marshland near Borth.

The air was still and heavy, very humid. Lot of butterflies everywhere, and dragonflies too. We saw a couple of kites, but no osprey. 

The track hits the A487 at Tre Taliesin – a place where lead and tin have been mined since Roman times.  Along the main road, then a detour through the little settlement of Cletwr where there is a community centre with cafe, farm shop, gallery and book exchange. Another coffee seemed in order to support the local economy.

Historic mining

Immediately after the village the path climbs up into woodland.  It was a steady climb, moderately steep, with mainly larch plantation, but signs of re-naturalisation of broad-leaved species.  We met a walker coming towards us and I stopped to chat – he is also walking round the whole coast but is coming the opposite way. He started in the Lake District. He was extolling the virtues of the Llyn Peninsula, which I will probably reach on my next leg.  Once at the top, we sat down in a field to admire the view.  We soon heard the roar of a trail bike zooming towards us. Presumably the farmer was checking that we were not bothering his sheep or setting a fire.  He seemed reassured by the site of two harmless women, but recommended we move to the next field for the best view.  He was right – from the next field we could see right across the estuary to the walk I’ll  be doing tomorrow.

View over the Dyfi estuary from the south.

We had one slightly tricky path finding moment, but other than that, all was well.  We had completed our 7.5 miles by about 5.30.  I whisked Jane back to Borth, and she drove home, whilst I came back here to my little AirBandB.  I’ve just been to the co-op for food – two pub dinners in a row is enough stodge for a while.

A gold day.

Day 134, Llanfarian to Borth 4 July 2023
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Day 134, Llanfarian to Borth 4 July 2023

After yesterday’s adventure, I was surprisingly perky – I haven’t walked much lately, but didn’t suffer any ill effects. My little Airbnb in Machynlleth is fab.  I dropped my car at Borth, and took the train to Aberystwyth – it is a very scenic route along a single track.

Waiting for the train at Borth. © Melita Thomas

Trains go left to Shrewsbury and Birmingham, and right to Aberystwyth.  I got to the latter place, where I met Jane, and we drove up to Llanfarian, about level with where I left the path yesterday.  It was impossible to get back to t he path without going down a horrible narrow lane, so we took a a delightful walk along the old railway track on the south side of the estuary, meeting the path again just to the south of Aberystwyth. 

We walked along the cobbly beach into the town,  where I have never been before. It was a good morning, and we had a really excellent lunch in a Spanish tapas bar, Ultima Comida. It was so good we’ve decided to go back tomorrow to pick up some cheese etc to take home, and get a fresh sandwich for the walk. 

The approach to Aberystwyth © Melita Thomas

Aberystwyth is, of course, very important historically in Wales as the location for the first non-violent protest by Cymdeithas yr Iath Gymraeg (Society for the Welsh Language) in 1963. In the centre of the town, there is also the location of the first bank in Wales. We left Aber about 2pm, and made our way along the front, which has very attractively painted houses. The town is an interesting mix of university prosperity and deep underlying poverty. At the end of the promenade is a steep hill, with a funicular.  We decided to walk up, and the views were fantastic.  For the next couple of hours we had superb weather, with lots of ups and downs and great views. 

The Funicular to the north of Aberystwyth. © Melita Thomas

We came to Morfa Borth and debated whether to climb one final hill, or go around the foot of the cliff on the shore.  I though the tide was going out, Jane thought it was coming in.

High road or low road? The headland south of Borth. © Melita Thomas

We could see fishermen on the rocks and another walker, so we decided to go for it.  It was not that easy, but we got across the rocks onto Borth beach.  The tide was, in fact, coming in, and as we walked along the main beach, it rushed in quite quickly. 

Tide swiftly coming in as we approached Borth. © Melita Thomas

A drink in the Queen Victoria pub in the evening sunshine capped the day nicely – 10.3 miles. Definitely a gold day!

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Day 133 Aberaeron to Llanrhystud 3 July 2023

I left home in plenty of time in order to have a chance to stop at the cafe in Llanymddyfri where I had the excellent orange drizzle cake on my last trip.  Sadly, it was closed on a Monday so I had to make do with a fairly average coffee and cake in a different establishment. The weather was not promising, chilly and squally, but it improved as I reached my destination of Llanrhystud.  I parked in the pub car park and waited opposite for the bus.  I had checked the timetable before setting out, but it was a bit confusing as different website showed different times.  I decided that I was in the wrong place so walked down the road to the next bus stop, to catch the 13.01.  A man came up to me who clearly has a career as a bus-spotter. He informed me that the T1 would be at least 18 minutes late – apparently it was due at 1 minute past and at 29 minutes to the hour but got later and later as the day progressed. He had once known it to be 22 minutes late, requiring him to wait 32 minutes!  I did get him to confirm that I was in the right place.  As it happened the bus was a mere 1 minute late, and deposited me at Aberaeron on schedule. I didn’t like Aberaeron much more this time than I did last October, although on the positive side the public loos are free to use. 

Cobbly beach at Aberaeron. © Melita Thomas

The walk began along the beach edge over horrible cobbly stones. It then improved and ran alongside the beach, over a grassy track which continued for several miles.  I then reached the point where there was an alternative to walk along the beach, or go inland slightly.  I opted for the beach, checking that I had to turn inland at the caravan park at Llansanffraed to cut across the fields back to where I had left the car.  This was a mistake! I toiled over the horrible ankle-breaking cobbles for a considerable distance, but saw no sign of any caravan parks.  I saw the church at Llansanffraed, but went a bit further, in hopes of seeing the route as it appeared on the map, but nothing.  I was not sure what to do, but decided that I did not want to miss the turning, so shimmied under the wire fence and walked across a field – I could smell cows but thought that I would hit the lane before any closer involvement – as it happened there was a trackway where the cows had clearly passed not long before.  I had no alternative but to go through a couple of gates to the farmyard and onto the main road.  I then discovered that I was still some distance from the car.  It was 16.10 so I decided I would get a bus – but there was no timetable on the bus shelter and the on-line info suggested that the next bus would be tomorrow.  It was at least 2 miles more to Llanrhystud, and I was nervous about walking along the main A487 – it is a busy road, with no footpath.  I decided that I would have to go back across the fields to the path, which I duly did, with little problem.  I then came to the missing caravan park – fantastic.  I asked an extremely good-looking workman the route through the park -he certainly brightened up my day!  If I wanted to stick to the path, he said, I should go over the stepping stones across the river and up the hill. I followed his advice , and saw the most amazing spectacle – a whole bevy of red kites attacking a group of sea gulls.  The birds were swirling and chasing each other right in front of me.  Red kites are everywhere here so I am used to seeing them at a distance, but these were less than 10 feet away. It was an amazing sight – fortunately, they did not catch any of the gulls or it might have been a bit grisly.  I carried on up a slope along the path.  According to the map, I would hit a lane.  But I didn’t. I walked, and I walked, and I walked. Far beyond the 7 miles I was anticipating.  I looked at the map again – clearly, the caravan park that I had initially sought had gone, and the second one was further along than I thought.  There was no obvious track back to the main road – the next stop was Aberystwyth – too far for me to go.  I decided to knock at the door of a farm I could see in the distance and ask them to call me a taxi.  I knocke, but the first place was deserted.  I could see on the map that there was a wild camping spot at Morfa Bychan with a little lane, so I made for that, passing another house which I did not fancy approaching.  I cannot tell why, but it had a very unpleasant atmosphere and I think it is best to trust one’s instincts in these matters.  I finally  hit the lane and knocked on a door – the kind gentleman gave me a glass of water, and called me a taxi- fortunately it arrived within 10 minutes and whisked me back to my car.  I had done 14 miles, rather than the anticipated 7!

A good silver day, if a little long

Day 132 Cei Newydd/Newquay to Aberaeron 27 Oct 2022
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Day 132 Cei Newydd/Newquay to Aberaeron 27 Oct 2022

Today was definitely not one of my best – in fact, it was only a Tin day. I had planned to drive to Aberaeron and get the 10.46 bus back to Cei Newydd. On double checking over an excellent meal last night, I found that the Saturday buses are at 9.51 or 11.51. I decided to go for former although I was a bit worried about making it as breakfast is not served here until 8.30 and obviously, I am quite unable to function without my breakfast!  Once I got to the actual bus stop, I found yet another timetable which said 9.47. Fortunately, I had 3 mins to spare, despite having to run back to the car for my walking poles.

The weather was miserable although it was not actually raining when I started out. I got down to the shore to discover that the tide was high and that I couldn’t go along the main path which crosses the beach.

High tide at Cei Newydd/Newquay. The path is completely covered. © Melita Thomas

An older lady helped me. She was clearly a native Welsh speaker as a couple of times she said it in Welsh then repeated it in English. Fortunately my Welsh was up to the challenge. She told me how to get through the town to the higher path.  I followed directions satisfactorily but it was hard under foot, marching along a B road. The lady had told me that you turned at a junction for the alternative high tide route but the only tiny junction I passed was not way marked and seemed different from the map. I carried on, thinking it all very strange, and eventually found myself on the main A487. I had a vile walk for at least another 2.5 miles on the road, with traffic roaring past, a pavement that came and went, and pouring rain.  I turned off down a side road to pick up path by the shore.

A side road – dull, but better than the A487. © Melita Thomas

It was all very dull, although the rain had eased. I then had the pleasure of walking through a field of cows. I checked the map to see if there was an alternative route, but that would have taken me back onto the A road, which was not a good plan. Fortunately, the cows were docile. They watched me, but did not move. At last, I reached the shore and walked for a couple of miles along the cliff path, where I saw what I think was a stonechat sitting on a bush looking as though he had been painted on. 

Highlight of the day – a stonechat. © Melita Thomas

The water was very grey, but also very calm. Just at the end of the path there was a muddy slide down to the beach, so I was filthy when I got to the car, having covered 9 miles.  I once thought of moving to Aberaeron, but I’m glad I didn’t. There are some lovely houses but the beach is all pebbles, and the town is a bit  ‘kiss me quick’.  I arrived home to find the cat had been sick all over the bed to punish me for my absence.

Day 131 Llangrannog to Cei Newydd 26 Oct 2022
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Day 131 Llangrannog to Cei Newydd 26 Oct 2022

We didn’t manage to start at 10 am as planned, but had a leisurely breakfast in our fabulous hotel and admired the gardens before setting out – I really can’t recommend it enough. 

Castell Ceredigion/Cardigan Castle hotel gardens © Melita Thomas

We wound our way down the twisty lane to Llangrannog again, back past the Cofiwych Dryweryn sign then went along the narrowish bay before climbing up a very steep hill onto the cliff top. 

Cofiwch Dryweryn yn Llangrannog © Melita Thomas

There was a good deal of up and down all day. The weather was absolutely superb and we walked in T-shirts all the way in golden sunshine, with the bracken glowing orange on the hillsides.  Sadly, we still weren’t lucky enough to see any dolphins or seals on the very calm seas. 

Climbing the hill out of Cei Newydd/New Quay © Melita Thomas

Nor could we see the Llyn Peninsula, which apparently is lucky, as if you can see it, it is a harbinger of rain.  Looking back, we could see Y Mwnt disappearing into the distance.  We went down another steep hill into a little place called Cwmtydu for a coffee, then there was another series of ups and downs into Cei Newydd.   It was a lovely, uneventful day of glorious weather and scenery, covering a comfortable 8.8 miles. Definitely a gold day!

Day 130 Y Mwnt to Llangrannog 25 October 2022
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Day 130 Y Mwnt to Llangrannog 25 October 2022

View looking back to Y Mwnt and the church of the Holy Cross. © Melita Thomas

We spent half an hour or so looking round Aberteifi, buying non-essential items, including an atmospheric black and white post card of the lovely church at Y Mwnt. We then drove to Llangrannog to leave one car The car park is down a very steep road, narrow road – the kind where you are constantly praying that nothing comes in the opposite direction. We then returned to Y Mwnt.  The weather was mixed – low cloud and soft air for most of the day, cheering up to a much clearer eventing. The day was uneventful – a few steep ups and downs as Y Mwnt receded into the distance. Disappointingly, the only dolphin we saw was this one…

We stopped for tea and cake at Aberporth, leaving the path to walk up into the village.  Back on the route, we could see as far as Aberystwyth – a definite feeling of progress.  Over a few more ups and downs and into some woodland: the lichens and the ferns suggesting that it might be a bit of the elusive temperate rain forest that it hanging on in the West of Britain. 

St Crannog, by Sebastien Boyesen. © Melita Thomas

We came into Llangrannog just as it was getting dark. It is a traditional seaside village, which often hosts adventure trips for school children, as the harbour is safe and ideal for learning water sports. There were still people fishing on the beach as we arrived, passing the statue of St Crannog, cast by local bronze sculptor, Sebastien Boyesen, and erected in memory of the sixth century saint who preached the Gospel here. 

We had an excellent supper in the Pentre Arms pub, then toiled up the hill back to the car park.  It was very dark, and the route was a bit confusing, but we found it eventually. 

11.4 miles, including walking back to the car and yet another Gold day.  

Day 129 Aberteifi/Cardigan to Y Mwnt 24 Oct 2022
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Day 129 Aberteifi/Cardigan to Y Mwnt 24 Oct 2022

We had to get up bright and early this morning as neither of us had found the carpark for the hotel yesterday and we were both pay and display carparks which charge from 8 am. We then wrapped ourselves around an excellent breakfast before driving to Y Mwnt to leave one car.  It was not immediately obvious how to find the carpark, but eventually we tracked it down – right at the foot of Y Mwnt – which is a pointy hill on the coast, visible from some distance.

Bridge over Afon Teifi, looking from the north. © Melita Thomas

I decided that we did not need to go back to Poppit Sands, as the walk from there is down the estuary, rather than along the coast, and is a narrow, tarmac’d road – unpleasant and dangerous to walk along, and not part of the coast.  Consequently, we started again from Cardigan Castle, right on the bridge over the Teifi. 

Aberteifi/Cardigan is a pleasant town (allowing for the fact that Welsh towns are not generally as pretty as English ones, although the surrounding countryside is nearly always fabulous). In the paving on the main road there is a slab with the words of the well-known hymn, Calon Lân, (Pure Heart) engraved.

The chorus of Calon Lân. © Melita Thomas

I am not sure why – perhaps it was written by a local bard? The castle was first built by a Norman invader, Gilbert de Clare, presumably as part of his assault across the Irish Sea on Ireland. It was taken for the Welsh in 1165 by Rhys ap Gruffydd (usually known as the Lord Rhys), the mightiest Welsh prince of the late twelfth century. He rebuilt the castle in stone, and some of his works remain extant.  

The weather was bright and breezy, with squalls to begin with, but we made good time along the north side of the estuary – there was a fair amount of road walking to start, but the views of the southern bank were good, and it is always nice to see the boats bobbing (or not bobbing) on the water. We passed some apple trees that were dangling temptingly over the path, so Jane clambered up the five-bar gate to supplement our lunch.

Bobbing and not-bobbing boats on the Teifi Estuary. © Melita Thomas

Turning off the road, we walked through beet fields, with Ynys Aberteifi/Cardigan Island ahead of us – it is known for its colonies of grey seals, but we did not see any there. In fact, the whole day, despite having our eyes peeled for dolphins, which are regular visitors to this part of the coast we only saw one seal. Eventually, the point of Y Mwnt came into view.  The sun had come out by this point, so we sat above the little inlet, where lots of people were enjoying themselves – some hardy souls were even swimming.  I decided that I was not brave enough for full immersion, but I did paddle – it was eye-wateringly cold, but exhilarating. My feet tingled for ages afterward.

Paddling at the foot of Y Mwnt. © Melita Thomas
Holy Cross Church, Y Mwnt. © Melita Thomas

We then climbed up to the top of Y Mwnt, great views in all directions, before visiting the lovely little church of Holy Cross at the foot. It has been there, time-out-of-mind, for the benefit of pilgrims and the tiny local community. It was a very tranquil space, moving in its quiet simplicity.

Another gold day, covering a modest eight miles.  

Day 128 – Trewyddel/Moylegrove to Poppit Sands 23 Oct 2022
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Day 128 – Trewyddel/Moylegrove to Poppit Sands 23 Oct 2022

I had a lovely drive through the autumn morning, stopping for a very nice piece of orange drizzle cake at Llanddymyfri.  I saw Jane come up behind me, but apparently she followed me for 30 miles without realising it, even though I waved frantically out of the car window at her – I hope she’s a bit more attentive to other activity on the road! After a not very brief and totally unnecessary detour through Aberteifi/Cardigan, we stopped for a quick lunch in the nice little café at Poppet Sands, then took Jane’s car to Trewyddel/Moylegrove. It was a rather steep and twisty route. We then walked up through the woods where Rachel and I had stumbled in the dark last year – they looked very different in daylight, and approached from the opposite direction – definitely less spooky. The weather was changeable, but stayed pretty dry. The views were excellent, but sadly there were no seals or dolphins.

Hitting the coast near Trewyddel/Moylegrove

We had a straightforward walk, with some excellent views and superb autumn colours.

Autumn colours

We got back about 5pm and walked along the lovely beach at Poppit Sands.  We sat down against a rock, and were just thinking we should turn back when it poured, so we got very wet in the last five minutes, nevertheless, an excellent day.

I have now finished the Pembrokeshire Coast Path – utterly magical from start to finish.

We are staying in the Castle in the town – it is absolutely excellent – can’t recommend highly enough. The room is spacious and airy, and the staff are lovely.  We are on tenterhooks as Jane and her partner are hoping to hear that the offer they have made on a house has been accepted.

Just had a good curry not far from the hotel – although it was BYO, which we did not realise. Jane stepped swiftly into the breach and nipped to the Spar for some red.

A mere 6.2 miles to get my legs in and another gold day.

Day 127 Pwll Gwaelod to Trewyddel 2 August 2021
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Day 127 Pwll Gwaelod to Trewyddel 2 August 2021

After the bus problems of yesterday the itinerary is shot. We parked at Trewyddel/Moylegrove and waited for the Poppet Rocket bus, which I’m glad to say appeared on time. In a slight vindictation of yesterday, the card reader wouldn’t work, so we ended up travelling for free. Although the bus does go to Pwll Gwaelod, only on its return from Abergwaun so we elected to jump off at Dinas Cross and walk down. We were rewarded by a lovely little gallery and cafe, where we had coffee and Welsh cakes and I bought a post card. I don’t generally buy souvenirs since I am waging a never-ending war on the creeping tide of stuff, but it was pretty.

Setting out from Dinas Cross. Excellent Welsh cakes


Having been disappointed last night that the cats we were busy naming had been reserved, I had enquired about others and was delight to get a call a mile or so in about them. After three long conversations the deal was done and I pick up Lulu (will definitely have to rename her!) and Teddy on Friday.

Cofiwich Dryweryn!

At the farthest point of Dinas Head, is the trig point, painted with the slogan ‘Cofiwch Dryweryn’ a reference to the outrageous drowning of the village of Tryweryn in Gwynedd by Liverpool Council in 1965 to create a reservoir to supply the city.  

Just after Dinas Head, we came to a place called Cwm-yr-Eglwys, where it is easy to see how the coast has changed. The ruins of the old church are almost on the beach.  It was a busy place, with lots of badly behaved children, and well-behaved dogs, as well as vice-versa.

Cwm-yr-Eglwys

We arrived at Newport about 2.45 and walked up from the beach to the town, but at that time of the day, there was no food available, so we picked up a snack in Spar, then had an excellent ice cream.

It was a long walk in the afternoon. The weather was fantastic but we saw only one seal and none of the promised dolphins or porpoises.

Close to the end, we were pretty tired, but the scenery around Pwll y Wrach/Witches’ Cauldron was absolutely spectacular. 

There was then a final walk down the river valley, rapidly getting darker, till it was almost night. There was nowhere to eat again, so another emergency trip to Spar was needed.

Above Pwll-y-Wrach

16 miles in total, and the view if nothing else, made it a Gold day.