Welsh coast path

Day 140 Tal-y-Bont to Harlech 18 September 2024
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Day 140 Tal-y-Bont to Harlech 18 September 2024

We spent the morning at Portmeirion. The weather was absolutely glorious and the views are superb.  I have decided that the big birthday I have coming up in a couple of years merits a party and it was so lovely at Portmeirion that I am going to have it there.

The hotel at Portmeirion, where we had coffee and cake. © Melita Thomas

Fully loaded up on coffee and cake, we set out from Tal-y-bont around 2pm.  The path goes along the beach which is wide and flat. A bit shingly at the top but soft sand near the water’s edge. 

The weather remained superb and we ambled along happily. Although it was warm for the time of year, we felt the need for clothes, so it was something of a surprise when we came to Morfa Dyffryn to be confronted with quite a few people who did not think that clothes were necessary as they soaked up the sun on the dunes.  It seemed a little tasteless to take photos on this stretch, so I have nothing to show you! We marched on swiftly, eyes front.

We rounded a little rocky outcrop to come to the much narrower beach at Llandanwg. My great-uncle and his wife had a house just near the beach, but I could not remember which one it was.

The beach below Tal-y-Bont © Melita Thomas

There is a very ancient church there, dedicated to St Tanwg, although it may already have been in existence when he arrived. It is probably one of the oldest Christian sites in the whole of Britain, from the early fifth century, although the current building is c. 13-15th centuries. There is no electricity and the interior is completely unadorned, just the beautiful flagstone floor, some wooden pews, and plain white-washed walls. It felt very peaceful with the echo of more than fifteen hundred years of prayer.

Llandanwg Church interior © Melita Thomas

The path continues along the beach below Harlech Castle and this is where it got slightly trickier. When Harlech was built by Edward I it was at the water’s edge.  Now, there is a good mile of dunes to negotiate and it is not always easy to find the way. Eventually, we arrived at the road below the castle to be confronted with a couple of hundred feet of practically vertical steps up to the town.

There was another superb sunset and we managed 12.9 miles, despite having started late.  Another gold day.

Day 136 Machynlleth to Aberdyfi 6 July 2023
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Day 136 Machynlleth to Aberdyfi 6 July 2023

Today has been superb!  I left about 8.30 (with ominous noises from my car, which has been playing up lately – I think it needs a new starter motor 😦 ) I drove to Aberdyfi, which took about 35 mins, although it is only 10 miles, but there were a couple of sets of road works and the road is very twisty.  I parked at the station and jumped on the 9.33 train, bound for Birmingham International, via every station in Mid-Wales and Worcestershire. Fortunately, it arrived at Machynlleth on time, so I began my walk a few minutes after 10am, well to the east of the Dyfi estuary . 

Trashed honesty box, near Machynlleth.

The first bit is along the A492, not very pleasant, then you turn up a track. My goodness, it was steep.  Up and up it went, then branched left (past a little sales hut with an honesty box that some lout has trashed – honestly, why would anyone do that?)  The path turned across a bracken-filled field, and kept climbing, eventually reaching the edge of woodland.  It took me an hour to do 1.8 miles, it was so steep. I stopped to eat an apple and admire the view.

Woodland above the A493

The peace was disturbed by the sound of machinery – I thought it was logging, but when I had scrambled down the steep slope off the peak, I saw that the track had been recently trimmed, so I guess it was that. In the clearing at the bottom were several men, ready to start path maintenance. 

At this point the trail joins the cycle route and continues on a stony track for several miles, then a bit of road into Felindre, which has a best-kept village award, but sadly the only community pub/cafe was closed.  A few yards further on, the path goes into the Macdonald Leisure Centre – it looked like a community of sheltered housing, but presumably is a holiday destination, as there is a pool and leisure centre.  It said open to non-residents, so I went in to have a coffee.  I went to reception and asked the girl behind the desk for coffee.  She was apologetic – it was her first day and she did not know how to use the machine.  The others were on their break. At that point, another staff member arrived.  She thought the coffee machine needed to be cleaned first, but did not know how to do it.  She called the other two staff members from their break – none of them knew how to use it – it seem a bit limiting to have four people, none of whom can use the coffee machine in a leisure club.  One offered to make me a cup of instant, but I declined with thanks.

The path then ran out the back of the club along a grassy track, into woodland, and eventually across a sheepfield where I met two Scottish women who’d come over the top from Tywyn and were making for Machynlleth – definitely a harder route.  The track then dropped down across the main road again onto a side road that climbed and climbed, before turning into a long track across the hillside. It is called the Panorama Track, and no prizes for guessing why – the whole of the Dyfi estuary could be seen, with the mountains to the south, and the Cader Idris range to the north, then out to the west, the sea was gleaming in the distance.  It was a long walk, but absolutely wonderful. Definitely some of the best views of the entire walk so far although because the sun was not bright, the photos don’t do it justice. 

The Dyfi Estuary

Eventually, the track turned off through a couple of fields – one so steep and ploughed up from cattle that it was a struggle to walk – my knees were definitely fed up by this point. 

I got into Aberdyfi just after four – meaning I had done 11.2 miles in six hours, including several stops to admire the view. Good timing considering how steep parts were.  I asked advice on a cafe and was directed to one that apparently was excellent, but I had no opportunity to test it as they were not serving between 4 and 5.  The next one, too was closed.  Seriously – in holiday season in a beach side town, why would you close your cafe at 4pm?  What British person doesn’t want a cup of tea at 4pm?  Fortunately, I found another place that had a little more sense as to what might be a good way to run a catering business and had a very good cherry blondie.  11.6 miles back to the car and another Gold day.

Day 134, Llanfarian to Borth 4 July 2023
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Day 134, Llanfarian to Borth 4 July 2023

After yesterday’s adventure, I was surprisingly perky – I haven’t walked much lately, but didn’t suffer any ill effects. My little Airbnb in Machynlleth is fab.  I dropped my car at Borth, and took the train to Aberystwyth – it is a very scenic route along a single track.

Waiting for the train at Borth. © Melita Thomas

Trains go left to Shrewsbury and Birmingham, and right to Aberystwyth.  I got to the latter place, where I met Jane, and we drove up to Llanfarian, about level with where I left the path yesterday.  It was impossible to get back to t he path without going down a horrible narrow lane, so we took a a delightful walk along the old railway track on the south side of the estuary, meeting the path again just to the south of Aberystwyth. 

We walked along the cobbly beach into the town,  where I have never been before. It was a good morning, and we had a really excellent lunch in a Spanish tapas bar, Ultima Comida. It was so good we’ve decided to go back tomorrow to pick up some cheese etc to take home, and get a fresh sandwich for the walk. 

The approach to Aberystwyth © Melita Thomas

Aberystwyth is, of course, very important historically in Wales as the location for the first non-violent protest by Cymdeithas yr Iath Gymraeg (Society for the Welsh Language) in 1963. In the centre of the town, there is also the location of the first bank in Wales. We left Aber about 2pm, and made our way along the front, which has very attractively painted houses. The town is an interesting mix of university prosperity and deep underlying poverty. At the end of the promenade is a steep hill, with a funicular.  We decided to walk up, and the views were fantastic.  For the next couple of hours we had superb weather, with lots of ups and downs and great views. 

The Funicular to the north of Aberystwyth. © Melita Thomas

We came to Morfa Borth and debated whether to climb one final hill, or go around the foot of the cliff on the shore.  I though the tide was going out, Jane thought it was coming in.

High road or low road? The headland south of Borth. © Melita Thomas

We could see fishermen on the rocks and another walker, so we decided to go for it.  It was not that easy, but we got across the rocks onto Borth beach.  The tide was, in fact, coming in, and as we walked along the main beach, it rushed in quite quickly. 

Tide swiftly coming in as we approached Borth. © Melita Thomas

A drink in the Queen Victoria pub in the evening sunshine capped the day nicely – 10.3 miles. Definitely a gold day!

Day 126 – Abergwaun to Pwll Gwaelod 1st August 2021
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Day 126 – Abergwaun to Pwll Gwaelod 1st August 2021

Today was a logistical failure. I had carefully, or so I thought, checked the bus timetable from Trefdraeth/Newport and decided that the 11.25 bus would be fine. We got to the bus stop at about 10.45 and glancing at the timetable were disappointed to see that we had missed one at 10.25. We decided to walk around the little village, and found a café after talking to nice woman with a cat. Cats are on my mind, as last night Rachel was encouraging me to look on the Cats’ Protection League cat homing page and so I submitted an enquiry for a sibling pair – one black and white, and one tabby and white. We got back to bus stop and amused ourselves with thinking of cat names.  We then looked at timetable and realised that the Sunday bus was 12.25. So back to the cafe for another coffee and a cat name discussion. Chairman Miaow, Franz Katka, and Advocat are strong favourites, along with Bramble and basil, Treacle and Pudding, and Rasputin.

The Monthly Tutor’s Cottage, Abergwaun

12.25 came and went. No bus. After 15 minutes, I looked on line and it appeared that there are no Sunday buses, despite timetable. We decided to drive back to Fishguard, walk out and then back again. The route was pleasant, down a steep hill to the lower town, past the charmingly named ‘The Monthly Tutor’s Cottage’, then up past the harbour to the old fort at the headland where we took turns to pose on a canon.

Looking fab on a canon!

It was overcast. We met a man with an enormous pack that made us glad to be travelling light. We passed through a campsite with lots of people, and got to the hill just above Pwll Gwaelod. It was getting late, and we were concerned about being back before dark. We had heard rumours that there were dolphins playing off the coast, but we did not see any. The sun came out at last, giving us lovely views – it’s always quite different covering the same ground in the opposite direction. Hopefully, the bus arrangements for tomorrow will work! Only 5 miles covered – my shortest day, so far, I think. A silver day today.

Day 119 – St Ann’s head to St Martin’s Haven 2nd February 2020
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Day 119 – St Ann’s head to St Martin’s Haven 2nd February 2020

Today was a short day, but none the worse for that. Since we are in the delightful cathedral city of St David’s, some of us decided that we would like to go to Evensong, so our walk was limited to allow for getting back by 6pm.  In the end only three of us walked at all. Graham’s ankle is still dodgy (and I think a desire to watch the England-France game may have made it somewhat worse) and Sally and Trevor decided to look around the city.

We got to the carpark at St Ann’s around 10am, and walked back to the place we turned off the path last night.

St Ann's Head

Lighthouse at St Ann’s Head

The weather was weak sunshine, but the wind was howling. In fact, it never let up all day.  The path runs close to the cliff edge, and the wind was blowing us almost horizontally onto the land so, since I am not very heavy, I spent a good deal of time staggering about. Once again, I was glad of my lovely poles. The views were spectacular all the way – too overcast to really see clearly, but the outlines of the various islands off the coast, including Skokholm and Skomer (which you can see were once part of the mainland) were faintly visible. The coast here is eroding fast, and at one point on the path ominous cracks in the adjacent field are already visible.

Coastal erosion

Coastal erosion – cracks appearing.

An interesting selection of different rock types, according to Tom. Igneous, Devonian sandstone, even volcanic basalt. Plenty of bird life again, too. Lots of gulls, of course, and starlings, a kestrel, and a couple of choughs.  No sign of any puffins, though.

There were a few ups and downs to the coves, but nothing too strenuous, fortunately, considering the wind.

 

 

Offshore island.

Off-shore island just visible in the mist – left on horizon – right is headland.

We did 6.9 miles and were finished by 2.15. Another Silver day.

Day 110 Gowerton to Penbre/Burry Port 7 June 2019
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Day 110 Gowerton to Penbre/Burry Port 7 June 2019

I had a super drive down yesterday – just on six hours, which, considering I did not go near a motorway, was pretty good time.  I chose a leisurely route, with time for morning coffee at Chipping Norton, then along the A40 all the way to Caerfyrddin/Carmarthen, although the journey was marred by the news that the Ford factory at Pen-y-bont ar Ogwr/Bridgend is to close with the loss of 1700 jobs. What with that and the works at Porth Talbot being under threat, the whole economy of South Wales will be badly hit, and it is already a poor area.

Talking economics, rather than staying at ordinary B & B, I am self-catering, in part to keep the cost down. This is not a cheap hobby if I eat in cafes and pubs twice a day for ten day at a stretch.  My first location is just outside the town, on the coast path route. I have a little suite to myself – bedroom, bathroom, kitchenette, conservatory, and a deck overlooking the river. It was warm enough yesterday to sit out in my shorts – today is a complete contrast.  It has been one of the wettest days of the entire walk – the only days as bad might be the morning at Beachy Head, and a couple of wet afternoons with Chris and Tom in Essex in the winter of 2013/4. The forecast was bad, so I was pleased when I hopped off the train at Gowerton at 8.45 to find that it was overcast, but dry. Between 8.45 and 10.15, there were no more than a few flurries, but by 11.00 we had moved through ordinary rain to what some of my friends call double rain.

The path is straightforward. I can see why the M4 relief road has been cancelled – the back road out of Gowerton is serving as an alternative route already – despite being single track in some parts, there was a constant stream of traffic in both directions. Eventually, the path veeredoff into woodland, then a footbridge over the A48, and through more woodland, before joining the main road as it crossed the Llwchwr estuary. The original rail crossing was built by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, and much of his work remains, although it was updated in 1907.

Llwchwr Estuary

Original built by Brunel.

I was excited at the prospect of seeing the Llanelli Coastal Park – twenty (20???) years ago, it was one of the Millennium Commission projects that I worked on. Previously, the whole area to the south of Llanelli was industrial wasteland, but now it has been reclaimed, and there is a track running through for cyclists and walkers. I would have preferred the track to be a bit narrower, and perhaps less of it tarmac’d. It is hard underfoot and does not blend into the landscape, but I suppose it is easy cycling.  The path runs through wetland, past a golf course, and sometimes comes close to the shore, although for long stretches the raised railway obscures the view.  There are some nicely-designed seating areas, with slate and interesting levels in the grass, and in some parts, a profusion of wild-flowers – lots of cow-parsley and oxe-eye daisies.

Info on Llanelli wetlands

Copious bird-watching opportunities…when it is not raining.

Near North Dock, I could see the leisure centre, which I knew had a café – despite having brought sandwiches, I was cold and wet, and desperate for a cuppa. I was worried it might be closed – not many people would want to be out in today’s weather, but actually, it was packed, and was rather fancier than I anticipated. I opened the door, and the waitress did her best to hide her lack of enthusiasm as I stood in the doorway with water pouring off me.

I had a bowl of soup, then had no alternative but to put my wet coat back on and march off purposefully. I did not hang about and got to Penbre/Burry Port station around 2.30. I had to wait half an hour for a train, which was a cold and dispiriting experience, but at least it was on time.  I am sitting in my little conservatory, with a stray ginger cat for companion. I was asked by Mrs B & B not to encourage it, but although I ignored its cries yesterday, I couldn’t bring myself to leave it out in this weather. I hope I don’t get thrown out for breaking the rules.

Distance 11.6 miles and a Bronze day.

Update – 5 June 2019
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Update – 5 June 2019

No – I haven’t been put off my coast walk by mad cows, but I have had no time to walk since last July.  In the meantime, I have completed the Icknield Way, and have sent my second book off to the publisher, so I haven’t been idle.  Looking forward to a good chunk of walking over ten days, from Gowerton, across the Llwchwr estuary into West Wales, and, on day five, I should reach the Pembroke Coast Path.  Annoyingly, all the luggage transfer services go in the opposite direction, and since I have given up carrying my pack unless there is absolutely no alternative, I am having to do a complex set of bus and train manouevres each day, which has taken most of a day to work out, given the paucity of public transport in the area – and certainly no buses on Sundays.

Once again I have new boots. I love the Zimberland fit, but I have worn away the soles again.  I am trying a Scarpa pair – they are a narrower fit, so I have gone up a size. The assistant in the outdoors shop was shocked when I told him I wear two pairs of socks, but given my blister-free history, I am not changing now.   I am also trying poles – I have to admit, more for fending off cattle than anything else, but many people do recommend them. I have got folding ones so they can go in the back-pack. Not the twisty ones, I found them to be hopeless when I used them before. Super-light, Black Diamond Carbon poles – only 140g each, which is astonishingly light.

The forecast is not brilliant, but no point in worrying about that.

Day 109 – Cheriton to Gowerton 25 July 2018
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Day 109 – Cheriton to Gowerton 25 July 2018

We had a great celebratory meal last night, at an Italian restaurant in Mumbles, and I confess I was a little heavy-headed this morning. We hoped that today might be the lucky day for finding an 11 o’clock coffee stop, but alas, no joy.

We left one car near the station at Gowerton, then came back to the pub we finished at yesterday, and turned off down the lane where, had the sea wall at Cwm Ivy still been intact, we would have emerged from the salt-flats. To begin with the walk meandered around the flats again, but then entered farmland and some pleasant wooded areas.

However, it was not long before the path joins the road at Crofty.  We arrived there around 10.15, but neither pub was open.  The door of one was actually open, and a lady was laying tables, but she did not feel able to serve us coffee – nothing could be done before twelve.

Somewhat disgruntled, we marched on. Before long we saw a hiker coming towards us and stopped to talk. She is doing the Wales Coastal Path, but in the opposite direction. We talked about the optimum number of days to do on a trip. I said that in some ways, I’d like to do a really long chunk of two or three months, but that in fact, the longest stretch I have done was two weeks, by which time I was thoroughly fed up.  Her advice was that, once you push through the two-week mark, walking becomes your life, and you sink into it completely.  Not sure – one to think about if I have an extended period of free time – not likely in the immediate future.

The road was quiet to begin with, but became busier.  In parts, you can walk to the side on the old railway track, now a cycle-path, which used to serve a branch line from Gowerton to Penclawdd, initially installed to move coal from the mines in the Morlais valley. It is hard to believe there were once mines in the Gower – the Welsh Development Agency has done a fantastic job of removing all signs of this once pervasive industry.  Before the railway, there was a canal, which brought coal from inland to the dock, for transport to sea-going vessels.  There is the merest ghost now of the dock to be seen at low-tide.

Some effort has been made to make the route pretty with wildflowers, and it was good to see across the estuary, but after yesterday’s gorgeousness, today was bound to be a bit tame. Nevertheless, the weather was pleasant, and having my brother-in-law for company made it a silver day.

12 miles.

Day 107 – Caswell Bay to Port Eynon
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Day 107 – Caswell Bay to Port Eynon

What a difference from yesterday in the weather!  When we started out, it was grey and mizzling and continued overcast until well on into the afternoon. We drovIMG_4131e down into Gower, and left one car at Port Eynon, before coming back to Caswell Bay.  We dropped down on to Pwll du beach – being very critical of the rather ugly 1960s block of flats that over shadows it. Walking to the end of the beach, it was not clear where the path went – either over a heap of rocks at the end or else up onto the road in front of the block.

Whilst we were deliberating, we saw a couple of brave swimmers – it was still wet and quite chilly, and we were thinking that swimming was the last thing we fancied – suddenly, the man called out – Nick! Astonishingly, the couple had been my sister and brother-in-law’s neighbours in Surrey back in the early 2000s. Talk about a coincidence.  Just proves you cannot go anywhere without running into someone you know.

We chatted for a moment, and asked about any cafes in the vicinity – coffee was feeling like a good plan. Unfortunately, the nearest was an hour away at West Cliff.  We arrived at the excellent café in pouring rain, so spent a good 45 minutes having a delicious Welsh rarebit and coffee. It was still drizzling as we emerged but we were slightly comforted with the thought that the latest weather forecast was for sun in the afternoon.

Back on the path, we went round the headland, and found ourselves overlooking Three Cliffs Bay. The path then deviates into Pennard Burrows – as one might guess from the name, this is a series of sand-dunes – not brilliant for walking in, and easy to lose the path,  but, with the general lay of the land, not possible to get lost, even though you have to go slightly inland, towards a ruined church, as there is only one place to cross the little stream – a series of stepping stones. There were quite a few people about by this time, with dogs and children as the rain had stopped.

Over the stream, and up onto a low headland, than down through woodland with dunes under foot, onto Oxwich Bay.  We met a boy of around 12, who was holidaying with his IMG_4189family, who was eager to tell us about the giant blue jelly-fish he had found. It was the largest one he had ever seen – it was even the largest one his dad had ever seen!  And when we came onto Oxwich beach, we could agree that the jelly-fish are monsters!

We stopped for a drink at the hotel at the end of the bay, then went through the woods at the west end of Oxwich – there is a little church hidden in the woods, dedicated to St Illtyd. Legend has it that the first Christian church was built here in the sixth century – the current building is ancient enough – 13th & 14th century.  Unfortunately, it was locked.IMG_4206

There was a steep pull up to the top of the cliff, but the sun was beginning to shine quite brightly and the views were excellent as we did the last few miles along the beach edge before arriving at Port Eynon. There were lots of ponies wandering about – presumably they wander on the common land like Esmmoor ponies. IMG_4233

We found a pub, and had a welcome gin and tonic. The pub was crowded, and lots of people were eating. However, the presence of a (used) nappy in its sack on the table next to us argued in favour of a home-cooked meal.  A silver day, with 13 miles covered.

Day 106 – Abertawe to Caswell Bay 22 July 2018
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Day 106 – Abertawe to Caswell Bay 22 July 2018

Today was quite a contrast to yesterday!  I left the rather lovely Air B and B I have booked, with the idea of leaving the car about halfway between Abertawe and Mumbles. Nick, my brother-in-law from Australia, was due to meet me mid-afternoon, so the plan was to walk half-way, then meet him back at the house and continue.

I duly parked, and waited for a bus. And waited. And waited. According to the timetable, they passed along the road every  half hour, and I saw two come along, and turn up the road just before the stop I was standing at. I wrestled with downloading the timetable again on my phone and concluded that the bus I wanted did not run on a Sunday (atlhough the whole site was rather vague on detail), so I drove into Abertawe and parked by the station again. A good hour wasted!

But it did not matter – the weather was warm, and although I was feeling somewhat battered about the legs after yesterday, I was in good spirits. I walked down through the shopping area of Abertawe, past the ruins of the Norman castle, and into the bay area. This has been renovated in recent years and is a rather lovely marina. There were hordes of people around, apparently a charity run is in progress.

I fought my way against the tide of runners, and along the marina, coming out onto a short passage of sand-dunes, before the beach.

It is a superb beach – I am amazed it is not a more popular holiday destination. The sands are flat and golden, with a long tidal range.  I walked steadily for a couple of hours, soothing my scratched legs in the clear water, before climbing back up onto the cob and finding a bus that was actually going to Swansea. I picked up the car, and went back to the house, where I met Nick.  After a swift lunch, we dropped one car off at Caswell Bay, just beyond Mumbles and took the other back to where I had caught the bus. Proceedings got off to a good start with an ice-cream from the local dairy.

Again, it was a leisurely walk – the beach at this western end of the bay is much less attractive – quite a lot of rather smelly mud, so we walked mainly along the promenade, into Mumbles. We could see the lighthouse on a promontory, off the beach below – there were steep stairs going down, then up again to the lighthouse rock, but much of it was inaccessible. The lighthouse was built in 1794, and re-engineered in 2017 to be LED lit. The other famous feature is the pier, with the station from the old Swansea-Mumbles railway – the first railway in the world that took paying passengers. At that time it was horse-drawn, but converted to steam-power in 1877. Always a popular holiday destination, Mumbles was described by Dylan Thomas as ‘a rather nice village, despite its name’.  The town was chosen by The Times newspaper as the best place to live in Wales in 2018 – personally, I preferred the beach at the Swansea end of the bay, but it is certainly a charming town.

The path then climbs up onto a headland, over the golf course and in the late evening sun we could see far away to the headland above Oxwich.  A thoroughly enjoyable day – actually reaching Gold standard.