Ceredigion

Day 134, Llanfarian to Borth 4 July 2023
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Day 134, Llanfarian to Borth 4 July 2023

After yesterday’s adventure, I was surprisingly perky – I haven’t walked much lately, but didn’t suffer any ill effects. My little Airbnb in Machynlleth is fab.  I dropped my car at Borth, and took the train to Aberystwyth – it is a very scenic route along a single track.

Waiting for the train at Borth. © Melita Thomas

Trains go left to Shrewsbury and Birmingham, and right to Aberystwyth.  I got to the latter place, where I met Jane, and we drove up to Llanfarian, about level with where I left the path yesterday.  It was impossible to get back to t he path without going down a horrible narrow lane, so we took a a delightful walk along the old railway track on the south side of the estuary, meeting the path again just to the south of Aberystwyth. 

We walked along the cobbly beach into the town,  where I have never been before. It was a good morning, and we had a really excellent lunch in a Spanish tapas bar, Ultima Comida. It was so good we’ve decided to go back tomorrow to pick up some cheese etc to take home, and get a fresh sandwich for the walk. 

The approach to Aberystwyth © Melita Thomas

Aberystwyth is, of course, very important historically in Wales as the location for the first non-violent protest by Cymdeithas yr Iath Gymraeg (Society for the Welsh Language) in 1963. In the centre of the town, there is also the location of the first bank in Wales. We left Aber about 2pm, and made our way along the front, which has very attractively painted houses. The town is an interesting mix of university prosperity and deep underlying poverty. At the end of the promenade is a steep hill, with a funicular.  We decided to walk up, and the views were fantastic.  For the next couple of hours we had superb weather, with lots of ups and downs and great views. 

The Funicular to the north of Aberystwyth. © Melita Thomas

We came to Morfa Borth and debated whether to climb one final hill, or go around the foot of the cliff on the shore.  I though the tide was going out, Jane thought it was coming in.

High road or low road? The headland south of Borth. © Melita Thomas

We could see fishermen on the rocks and another walker, so we decided to go for it.  It was not that easy, but we got across the rocks onto Borth beach.  The tide was, in fact, coming in, and as we walked along the main beach, it rushed in quite quickly. 

Tide swiftly coming in as we approached Borth. © Melita Thomas

A drink in the Queen Victoria pub in the evening sunshine capped the day nicely – 10.3 miles. Definitely a gold day!

Day 131 Llangrannog to Cei Newydd 26 Oct 2022
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Day 131 Llangrannog to Cei Newydd 26 Oct 2022

We didn’t manage to start at 10 am as planned, but had a leisurely breakfast in our fabulous hotel and admired the gardens before setting out – I really can’t recommend it enough. 

Castell Ceredigion/Cardigan Castle hotel gardens © Melita Thomas

We wound our way down the twisty lane to Llangrannog again, back past the Cofiwych Dryweryn sign then went along the narrowish bay before climbing up a very steep hill onto the cliff top. 

Cofiwch Dryweryn yn Llangrannog © Melita Thomas

There was a good deal of up and down all day. The weather was absolutely superb and we walked in T-shirts all the way in golden sunshine, with the bracken glowing orange on the hillsides.  Sadly, we still weren’t lucky enough to see any dolphins or seals on the very calm seas. 

Climbing the hill out of Cei Newydd/New Quay © Melita Thomas

Nor could we see the Llyn Peninsula, which apparently is lucky, as if you can see it, it is a harbinger of rain.  Looking back, we could see Y Mwnt disappearing into the distance.  We went down another steep hill into a little place called Cwmtydu for a coffee, then there was another series of ups and downs into Cei Newydd.   It was a lovely, uneventful day of glorious weather and scenery, covering a comfortable 8.8 miles. Definitely a gold day!