hiking

Day 136 Machynlleth to Aberdyfi 6 July 2023
by

Day 136 Machynlleth to Aberdyfi 6 July 2023

Today has been superb!  I left about 8.30 (with ominous noises from my car, which has been playing up lately – I think it needs a new starter motor 😦 ) I drove to Aberdyfi, which took about 35 mins, although it is only 10 miles, but there were a couple of sets of road works and the road is very twisty.  I parked at the station and jumped on the 9.33 train, bound for Birmingham International, via every station in Mid-Wales and Worcestershire. Fortunately, it arrived at Machynlleth on time, so I began my walk a few minutes after 10am, well to the east of the Dyfi estuary . 

Trashed honesty box, near Machynlleth.

The first bit is along the A492, not very pleasant, then you turn up a track. My goodness, it was steep.  Up and up it went, then branched left (past a little sales hut with an honesty box that some lout has trashed – honestly, why would anyone do that?)  The path turned across a bracken-filled field, and kept climbing, eventually reaching the edge of woodland.  It took me an hour to do 1.8 miles, it was so steep. I stopped to eat an apple and admire the view.

Woodland above the A493

The peace was disturbed by the sound of machinery – I thought it was logging, but when I had scrambled down the steep slope off the peak, I saw that the track had been recently trimmed, so I guess it was that. In the clearing at the bottom were several men, ready to start path maintenance. 

At this point the trail joins the cycle route and continues on a stony track for several miles, then a bit of road into Felindre, which has a best-kept village award, but sadly the only community pub/cafe was closed.  A few yards further on, the path goes into the Macdonald Leisure Centre – it looked like a community of sheltered housing, but presumably is a holiday destination, as there is a pool and leisure centre.  It said open to non-residents, so I went in to have a coffee.  I went to reception and asked the girl behind the desk for coffee.  She was apologetic – it was her first day and she did not know how to use the machine.  The others were on their break. At that point, another staff member arrived.  She thought the coffee machine needed to be cleaned first, but did not know how to do it.  She called the other two staff members from their break – none of them knew how to use it – it seem a bit limiting to have four people, none of whom can use the coffee machine in a leisure club.  One offered to make me a cup of instant, but I declined with thanks.

The path then ran out the back of the club along a grassy track, into woodland, and eventually across a sheepfield where I met two Scottish women who’d come over the top from Tywyn and were making for Machynlleth – definitely a harder route.  The track then dropped down across the main road again onto a side road that climbed and climbed, before turning into a long track across the hillside. It is called the Panorama Track, and no prizes for guessing why – the whole of the Dyfi estuary could be seen, with the mountains to the south, and the Cader Idris range to the north, then out to the west, the sea was gleaming in the distance.  It was a long walk, but absolutely wonderful. Definitely some of the best views of the entire walk so far although because the sun was not bright, the photos don’t do it justice. 

The Dyfi Estuary

Eventually, the track turned off through a couple of fields – one so steep and ploughed up from cattle that it was a struggle to walk – my knees were definitely fed up by this point. 

I got into Aberdyfi just after four – meaning I had done 11.2 miles in six hours, including several stops to admire the view. Good timing considering how steep parts were.  I asked advice on a cafe and was directed to one that apparently was excellent, but I had no opportunity to test it as they were not serving between 4 and 5.  The next one, too was closed.  Seriously – in holiday season in a beach side town, why would you close your cafe at 4pm?  What British person doesn’t want a cup of tea at 4pm?  Fortunately, I found another place that had a little more sense as to what might be a good way to run a catering business and had a very good cherry blondie.  11.6 miles back to the car and another Gold day.

Day 135 Borth to Ffwrnais 5 July 2023
by

Day 135 Borth to Ffwrnais 5 July 2023

We enjoyed our lunch so much yesterday that we decided to go back to the deli to pick up some cheese to take home, and a sandwich for the route. We left my car at Ffwrnais, and drove into Aberystwyth.  We were waylaid by a lovely little boutique where I was able to indulge my passion for scarves, whilst Jane fed her mania for belts.  While we were inside there was a sudden downpour, but that was all the rain we saw for the day. We went to the deli and I got some lovely Manchego with truffle and some Abaty Glas, which is a blue cheese made locally. It seemed only polite to have a coffee and I squeezed a chocolate croissant in as well.  Fully stuffed, we drove to Borth to drop Jane’s car. The walk along the south side of the Dyfi Estuary is flat and pleasant, but not exciting. It is over marshland for about 3 and a half miles.

Marshland near Borth.

The air was still and heavy, very humid. Lot of butterflies everywhere, and dragonflies too. We saw a couple of kites, but no osprey. 

The track hits the A487 at Tre Taliesin – a place where lead and tin have been mined since Roman times.  Along the main road, then a detour through the little settlement of Cletwr where there is a community centre with cafe, farm shop, gallery and book exchange. Another coffee seemed in order to support the local economy.

Historic mining

Immediately after the village the path climbs up into woodland.  It was a steady climb, moderately steep, with mainly larch plantation, but signs of re-naturalisation of broad-leaved species.  We met a walker coming towards us and I stopped to chat – he is also walking round the whole coast but is coming the opposite way. He started in the Lake District. He was extolling the virtues of the Llyn Peninsula, which I will probably reach on my next leg.  Once at the top, we sat down in a field to admire the view.  We soon heard the roar of a trail bike zooming towards us. Presumably the farmer was checking that we were not bothering his sheep or setting a fire.  He seemed reassured by the site of two harmless women, but recommended we move to the next field for the best view.  He was right – from the next field we could see right across the estuary to the walk I’ll  be doing tomorrow.

View over the Dyfi estuary from the south.

We had one slightly tricky path finding moment, but other than that, all was well.  We had completed our 7.5 miles by about 5.30.  I whisked Jane back to Borth, and she drove home, whilst I came back here to my little AirBandB.  I’ve just been to the co-op for food – two pub dinners in a row is enough stodge for a while.

A gold day.

by

Day 133 Aberaeron to Llanrhystud 3 July 2023

I left home in plenty of time in order to have a chance to stop at the cafe in Llanymddyfri where I had the excellent orange drizzle cake on my last trip.  Sadly, it was closed on a Monday so I had to make do with a fairly average coffee and cake in a different establishment. The weather was not promising, chilly and squally, but it improved as I reached my destination of Llanrhystud.  I parked in the pub car park and waited opposite for the bus.  I had checked the timetable before setting out, but it was a bit confusing as different website showed different times.  I decided that I was in the wrong place so walked down the road to the next bus stop, to catch the 13.01.  A man came up to me who clearly has a career as a bus-spotter. He informed me that the T1 would be at least 18 minutes late – apparently it was due at 1 minute past and at 29 minutes to the hour but got later and later as the day progressed. He had once known it to be 22 minutes late, requiring him to wait 32 minutes!  I did get him to confirm that I was in the right place.  As it happened the bus was a mere 1 minute late, and deposited me at Aberaeron on schedule. I didn’t like Aberaeron much more this time than I did last October, although on the positive side the public loos are free to use. 

Cobbly beach at Aberaeron. © Melita Thomas

The walk began along the beach edge over horrible cobbly stones. It then improved and ran alongside the beach, over a grassy track which continued for several miles.  I then reached the point where there was an alternative to walk along the beach, or go inland slightly.  I opted for the beach, checking that I had to turn inland at the caravan park at Llansanffraed to cut across the fields back to where I had left the car.  This was a mistake! I toiled over the horrible ankle-breaking cobbles for a considerable distance, but saw no sign of any caravan parks.  I saw the church at Llansanffraed, but went a bit further, in hopes of seeing the route as it appeared on the map, but nothing.  I was not sure what to do, but decided that I did not want to miss the turning, so shimmied under the wire fence and walked across a field – I could smell cows but thought that I would hit the lane before any closer involvement – as it happened there was a trackway where the cows had clearly passed not long before.  I had no alternative but to go through a couple of gates to the farmyard and onto the main road.  I then discovered that I was still some distance from the car.  It was 16.10 so I decided I would get a bus – but there was no timetable on the bus shelter and the on-line info suggested that the next bus would be tomorrow.  It was at least 2 miles more to Llanrhystud, and I was nervous about walking along the main A487 – it is a busy road, with no footpath.  I decided that I would have to go back across the fields to the path, which I duly did, with little problem.  I then came to the missing caravan park – fantastic.  I asked an extremely good-looking workman the route through the park -he certainly brightened up my day!  If I wanted to stick to the path, he said, I should go over the stepping stones across the river and up the hill. I followed his advice , and saw the most amazing spectacle – a whole bevy of red kites attacking a group of sea gulls.  The birds were swirling and chasing each other right in front of me.  Red kites are everywhere here so I am used to seeing them at a distance, but these were less than 10 feet away. It was an amazing sight – fortunately, they did not catch any of the gulls or it might have been a bit grisly.  I carried on up a slope along the path.  According to the map, I would hit a lane.  But I didn’t. I walked, and I walked, and I walked. Far beyond the 7 miles I was anticipating.  I looked at the map again – clearly, the caravan park that I had initially sought had gone, and the second one was further along than I thought.  There was no obvious track back to the main road – the next stop was Aberystwyth – too far for me to go.  I decided to knock at the door of a farm I could see in the distance and ask them to call me a taxi.  I knocke, but the first place was deserted.  I could see on the map that there was a wild camping spot at Morfa Bychan with a little lane, so I made for that, passing another house which I did not fancy approaching.  I cannot tell why, but it had a very unpleasant atmosphere and I think it is best to trust one’s instincts in these matters.  I finally  hit the lane and knocked on a door – the kind gentleman gave me a glass of water, and called me a taxi- fortunately it arrived within 10 minutes and whisked me back to my car.  I had done 14 miles, rather than the anticipated 7!

A good silver day, if a little long

Day 132 Cei Newydd/Newquay to Aberaeron 27 Oct 2022
by

Day 132 Cei Newydd/Newquay to Aberaeron 27 Oct 2022

Today was definitely not one of my best – in fact, it was only a Tin day. I had planned to drive to Aberaeron and get the 10.46 bus back to Cei Newydd. On double checking over an excellent meal last night, I found that the Saturday buses are at 9.51 or 11.51. I decided to go for former although I was a bit worried about making it as breakfast is not served here until 8.30 and obviously, I am quite unable to function without my breakfast!  Once I got to the actual bus stop, I found yet another timetable which said 9.47. Fortunately, I had 3 mins to spare, despite having to run back to the car for my walking poles.

The weather was miserable although it was not actually raining when I started out. I got down to the shore to discover that the tide was high and that I couldn’t go along the main path which crosses the beach.

High tide at Cei Newydd/Newquay. The path is completely covered. © Melita Thomas

An older lady helped me. She was clearly a native Welsh speaker as a couple of times she said it in Welsh then repeated it in English. Fortunately my Welsh was up to the challenge. She told me how to get through the town to the higher path.  I followed directions satisfactorily but it was hard under foot, marching along a B road. The lady had told me that you turned at a junction for the alternative high tide route but the only tiny junction I passed was not way marked and seemed different from the map. I carried on, thinking it all very strange, and eventually found myself on the main A487. I had a vile walk for at least another 2.5 miles on the road, with traffic roaring past, a pavement that came and went, and pouring rain.  I turned off down a side road to pick up path by the shore.

A side road – dull, but better than the A487. © Melita Thomas

It was all very dull, although the rain had eased. I then had the pleasure of walking through a field of cows. I checked the map to see if there was an alternative route, but that would have taken me back onto the A road, which was not a good plan. Fortunately, the cows were docile. They watched me, but did not move. At last, I reached the shore and walked for a couple of miles along the cliff path, where I saw what I think was a stonechat sitting on a bush looking as though he had been painted on. 

Highlight of the day – a stonechat. © Melita Thomas

The water was very grey, but also very calm. Just at the end of the path there was a muddy slide down to the beach, so I was filthy when I got to the car, having covered 9 miles.  I once thought of moving to Aberaeron, but I’m glad I didn’t. There are some lovely houses but the beach is all pebbles, and the town is a bit  ‘kiss me quick’.  I arrived home to find the cat had been sick all over the bed to punish me for my absence.