Gwynedd

Day 141 Harlech to Penrhyndeudraeth 19th September 2024
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Day 141 Harlech to Penrhyndeudraeth 19th September 2024

Jane went home this morning so I was on my own today. The weather was fabulous again.  Coming out of Harlech, the track is somewhat inland of the beach, turning off the A96 across fields then on an old road or farm track through some rather pleasant woods at Morfa Harlech. 

Edge of the woodland at Morfa Harlech © Melita Thomas

Back out over open farmland, the track then turns inland along Traeth Bach, which is the estuary of the Afon Dwyfryd (River). The land is marshy, but the views across to Portmeirion and Porthmadog are splendid. The path skirts around the base of Ogof Foel, but I chose to climb the peak, which is not very high, to enjoy the view.  The sunlight was hazy, but Cnicht could be seen in the near distance and the summit of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) on the far horizon. I stopped to enjoy my lunch and contemplate life for a while.

Ogof Foel, lunch at the top. © Melita Thomas

Coming back down the slope there is an easy track over the estuary edge, a little to the west of the railway line, which takes you across the river to join the main road at Penrhyndeudraeth.

View across Traeth Bach to Eryri © Melita Thomas

The village has had that name since the mid-nineteenth century when the surrounding swamp land was drained by David William of Castell Deudraeth. The village grew in line with the expansion of the North Wales slate industry and in the 1920s a factory for the manufacture of explosives (used to blast the slate) was situated there.  It closed down in 1995.

The day was somewhat marred by a lack of food opportunities in Minffordd, where my car was parked. Nevertheless, another gold day and an easy 11.9 miles.

Day 140 Tal-y-Bont to Harlech 18 September 2024
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Day 140 Tal-y-Bont to Harlech 18 September 2024

We spent the morning at Portmeirion. The weather was absolutely glorious and the views are superb.  I have decided that the big birthday I have coming up in a couple of years merits a party and it was so lovely at Portmeirion that I am going to have it there.

The hotel at Portmeirion, where we had coffee and cake. © Melita Thomas

Fully loaded up on coffee and cake, we set out from Tal-y-bont around 2pm.  The path goes along the beach which is wide and flat. A bit shingly at the top but soft sand near the water’s edge. 

The weather remained superb and we ambled along happily. Although it was warm for the time of year, we felt the need for clothes, so it was something of a surprise when we came to Morfa Dyffryn to be confronted with quite a few people who did not think that clothes were necessary as they soaked up the sun on the dunes.  It seemed a little tasteless to take photos on this stretch, so I have nothing to show you! We marched on swiftly, eyes front.

We rounded a little rocky outcrop to come to the much narrower beach at Llandanwg. My great-uncle and his wife had a house just near the beach, but I could not remember which one it was.

The beach below Tal-y-Bont © Melita Thomas

There is a very ancient church there, dedicated to St Tanwg, although it may already have been in existence when he arrived. It is probably one of the oldest Christian sites in the whole of Britain, from the early fifth century, although the current building is c. 13-15th centuries. There is no electricity and the interior is completely unadorned, just the beautiful flagstone floor, some wooden pews, and plain white-washed walls. It felt very peaceful with the echo of more than fifteen hundred years of prayer.

Llandanwg Church interior © Melita Thomas

The path continues along the beach below Harlech Castle and this is where it got slightly trickier. When Harlech was built by Edward I it was at the water’s edge.  Now, there is a good mile of dunes to negotiate and it is not always easy to find the way. Eventually, we arrived at the road below the castle to be confronted with a couple of hundred feet of practically vertical steps up to the town.

There was another superb sunset and we managed 12.9 miles, despite having started late.  Another gold day.

Day 139 Abermaw/Barmouth to Tal-y-Bont 17 Sept 2024
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Day 139 Abermaw/Barmouth to Tal-y-Bont 17 Sept 2024

I didn’t feel much like getting up early this morning as yesterday I had to left home at the crack of dawn to go to Oxford for work, then rushed back to give a talk about Tudor costume to the local W I, which I am glad to say went well, but I was feeling tired today. Nevertheless, since I had agreed to meet a Jane at 12pm near Abermaw/Barmouth, I had to make the effort. After a dismal summer, the weather was fantastic and the nearly four hour drive through mid-Wales was gorgeous.

Starting out from the beach at Barmouth.

I was running late when the phone went in the car. I have had the car for over a year now and have never managed to connect the Bluetooth before, so it was a somewhat of a surprise. It was Jane, concerned that her sat nav had taken her to the middle of nowhere. I parked near the appointed meeting place and tried to call her. Unfortunately the car connecting thing had entirely drained my phone battery. I had to knock on several doors before I found a kind lady who would let me plug the phone in, but even then I had to borrow her phone to actually get through. However we managed to meet eventually, then took my car to Abermaw.

It was a very straightforward walk, a bit too much on the road, but the weather was glorious and we were only doing 5 miles.

Paddling on the beach at Abermaw.

Back in Barmouth, we bought ice creams and went down to the water to paddle. Initially freezing, the water soon seemed warm and was delightful on our tired feet. It really is a stunning beach.

The sunset over the Llyn Peninsula was one of the best I’ve ever seen, although the picture does not really do it justice.

Sunset over the Llyn Peninsula, from Harlech.

We are staying in a very nice little AirBandB in Harlech. There is somewhat of a paucity of eating places open in the evening but we did get an absolutely excellent pizza in just next to the castle. The castle is impressive, despite being the work of that fiend, Edward I. It is hard to believe that the water used to come up nearly to the walls.  The sea is a good mile out now, beyond the golf course.

We are thinking of changing tomorrow’s plan and going to Portmeirion. Jane has never been and it would be a shame for her to miss such a lovely spot. I haven’t been for years – not since my parents’ fortieth wedding anniversary, back in 2001, when we had a big lunch party there.

An easy 5.9 miles and a gold day.